15,840,900 people - part 1
Big, loud, crowded, hectic and beautiful! That is Istanbul. The metropolis on the Bosporus has a lot to offer.

I have been living in Istanbul for a month now. This gigantic metropolis on two continents. In this series, I would like to take you on a little journey of discovery through Istanbul. Even in winter, the weather here is usually a little milder than in Germany, but the proximity to the sea means that the weather often changes very quickly.
Taksim
Let's start in Taksim. To be precise, on Taksim Square directly adjacent to the well-known Taksim Gezi Park. The square itself is absolutely unspectacular. A small, pretty historic tram line leads from here to the "Tünel" stop. However, I decide to walk. The most important shopping street in Istanbul leads me along the tram track to "Tünel" in about 20 minutes. On the way there are many shops of well-known brands, but also lots of food. Most of it is made for tourists from Arab countries and of inferior quality, but there are also well-known chains like "Mado", "Safa" and "Koska". From the "Tünel" stop, the "Fünikülar" takes me further towards my destination. Thanks to the Istanbulcard, I can get through the turnstile for a few cents. This card allows you to pay for public transport, including the ferries, but also for some public toilets. Istanbul's Fünikülar are funiculars that connect two stations at some points with larger gradients and run at intervals of a few minutes.
Die Istanbul Card ist das Kernstück des Ticketsystems in Istanbul. Es existieren dabei mehrere Versionen dieser Karte:
- Eine für Touristen, die es vielen Automaten gibt. Diese hat eine zeitlich beschränkte Gültigkeit und funktioniert ohne Guthaben. Diese Istanbul City Card ist dabei übermäßig teuer und aus meiner Sicht mehr eine Touristenfalle als ein seriöses Angebot.
- Eine Karte für 3 Fahrten, die oft aber 4 Mal funktioniert. Warum auch immer.
- Eine, die mit Guthaben aufgeladen wird. Diese kostet ca. 2,50€ einmalig und anschließend wird bei jeder Fahrt an den Eingangsdrehkreuzen der Ticketpreis vom Guthaben der Karte abgebucht. An einem kleinen Display an den Drehkreuzen und den Aufladestationen sieht man jederzeit das Restguthaben. Leider gibt es nur sehr wenige Verkaufsstellen für diese Karte und nur mit türkischer Menüführung.
- Die gleiche Karte in der personalisierten Variante. Diese ist nur am Schalter zu bekommen. Der Vorteil ist, dass bei dieser Karte nicht immer der gesamte Streckenpreis gezahlt werden muss. So wird bei einigen Verkehrsmitteln bei Durchgang durch das Drehkreuz der Ticketpreis für die gesamte Strecke abgebucht (meist unter einem Euro). Mit der personalisierten Istanbul Card kann man jetzt bei einem Ausstieg vor der Endhaltestelle an speziellen Automaten hierfür den Ticketpreis für den nicht genutzten Restweg auf die Karte erstattet bekommen.

Karaköy
Arrived in Karaköy, directly after the station on the left, is the Galata Bridge. Known for the many anglers who pull small fish out of the water here every day, it connects the two sides of the European plate of Istanbul, which are separated by the Golden Horn. To the left and right of the bridge, a few hundred metres away on the shore, there is a small harbour for the city's ferries. Except for the middle section, the bridge has two levels. At the top, there is a continuous street with a central lane for the trams, and to the left and right of the middle section of the bridge is a small promenade with restaurants that never miss a chance to seat you at their tables. When we cross the bridge, we leave Beyoğlu, the district that includes Taksim and Karaköy, and go on to Fatih.
Fatih
Arriving in the former district of Eminönü, which is now part of Fatih, directly opposite the bridge is the Egyptian Bazaar and the Yeni Cami, which, contrary to its name, is not so new (17th century). On this side, too, there is a harbour to the left and right of the bridge. If you want to take a boat tour along the Bospurus, this is also the right place. But that is perhaps a topic for another article. Now let's continue through the Egyptian Bazaar. The old, beautifully painted building is not particularly long, but nevertheless leads us into a breathtaking world of oriental spices, teas and sweets. Crowded together, the masses of tourists and locals push their way through the wide alley between the stalls. Traders advertise their wares and one or the other can be sampled with the risk of buying something after all.
After the bazaar, it is only a few metres to Sultan Ahmed Square. On the way, we pass the Cisterna Basilica, often called the Sunken Palace. This historic cistern under the city is definitely worth a visit.
Sultan-Ahmed-Square
The most important landmarks of the metropolis are located around Sultan Ahmed Square. The Hagia Sofia, the Sultan Ahmed Mosque and the Sultan's Palace (Topkapı Serayı in Turkish) are all within sight. The square itself is a sight in itself. In Constantinople's time, this was the city's horse racing track. Today, historic obelisks and the famous Serpent Column adorn the grounds.
Sultan-Ahmed Mosque
The two most beautiful buildings in Istanbul stand almost directly opposite each other. The Sultan Ahmed Mosque, also called the Blue Mosque because of the blue tiles on its domes and walls, is known for its six minarets. Since 2019, the Çamlıca Mosque (a compensation project for presidents with small...) has stood on the Asian side of Istanbul. This also has six minarets, but is probably better described as an eyesore of the metropolis. In any case, it is not suitable as a serious sight, because it not only has the appearance of a failed LED advertising board for dictators, but also has the atmosphere of a district hospital inside. The times of great Ottoman architecture are finally numbered with this building. But I digress.
Let's move on to the absolute highlight of the metropolis: the Hagia Sofia! This incredible building impresses with its size as much as its architecture. The millennia that these stones have lived through are as present as the smell of freshly roasted chestnuts everywhere on the square in front of the museum (even if a certain dictator sees it differently. P.S. Mr. President: you can wipe your ass with the fucking Hagia Sofia manifesto). Inside, a huge hall awaits visitors with incredibly impressive old paintings and mosaics (if the local maniac hadn't rolled out his carpet in it). Unfortunately, the museum is temporarily full of old bearded men who annoy you, but you shouldn't let that stop you and enjoy what people were able to build back then.
The Sultan's Palace
The last highlight of our tour is the Topkapı Serayı. The historic sultan's palace stretches over almost the entire headland between the Golden Horn and the Sea of Marmara and is a truly impressive building with its many courtyards, rooms and gardens. Enclosed by a high wall, you can spend a few hours walking through the corridors and rooms of former sultans, and thanks to a free audio guide and numerous information boards, you can easily find your way around. The entrance fee (I recommend using the vending machines. They are on the right after the security check at the entrance) is about ten times higher for non-Turks than for locals. There is a ticket without the harem, which is slightly cheaper. I would not recommend this, because the harem is everything that contains the living quarters of the ruling family with associated staff and is therefore the main part of the palace.
All the places from the article and a few more are entered in this list.